We stepped out of the pick-up truck in Nafadji, and Debbie and Liz were placed in our arms—the arms of Debbie and Liz. What an incredible welcome! The babies were wrapped in these beautiful, brightly colored fabrics, and just adorable. (If you missed the story on Leah’s blog—-these are the twin daughters of her Host sister who were born just about 6 weeks before our arrival. Leah played a critical role at their birth and was honored with naming rights for the babies. She chose her Mom’s name, Debbie, and mine, her Aunt, and so these names are on the official birth certificates and now, on this continent of Africa, my sister and I have namesakes!)
So, we were greeted by Leah’s Host family and friends and taken to the central gathering area where her Host Mom sits outside her hut on a mat keeping an eye on things and helping with everything from babycare to dinner prep and everything else that comes up. At this time she is handing the uncooked rice kernels looking for stones to discard and holding the babies. Her daughters are close by getting dinner prepared on the outdoor fire and nursing the babies as needed. The other kids are also hanging around, mostly around Bill, Leah’s Dad as he takes photos of the kids and they shriek with delight as he shows them the immediate digital result. Plastic chairs appear for us to sit and Leah introduces us all. Eyes go to my sister Debbie and her husband Bill as the family looks to identify similar features. Smiles are everywhere and although I cannot understand any words spoken, there is a genuine warmth I feel right away.
We see Leah’s hut and outdoor latrine and I try to imagine her life here without electricity, running water etc. I also try to imagine myself using these facilities as we plan to sleep here!
We see how Leah has integrated herself into this family and how much they care for her. She easily speaks Malinke, the language spoken in Nafadji, and is fluent in French as we later see.
The family members are all eager to talk with her and the children want to be picked up by her. We are taken to the garden by the Host Mom with all the kids joyfully walking with us, holding our hands. We pass the Brick man who is placing soil in a mold and drying bricks on the side of the road. We meet other villagers who come by to greet Leah and be introduced to us. Leah tells us that this is a huge part of the culture. You greet everyone you see and exchange pleasantries of which we never learn. We smile with delight and kvell over Leah’s ability to interact and understand. Goodbye’s are important too and Leah will give us some words to say so we appear polite! As we walk on the road to the garden and meet the people in the village, my sister, her husband and I are struck by the friendliness of the people, the beautiful fabrics the woman wear, and the organization of the hut communities. I wonder how the women balance bowls on their head filled with rice and peanuts and babies wrapped in fabric on their backs—their walk is so tall and proud—-so this is where multi-tasking began! The garden is lovely although rather quiet at this time of year—the dry season. The Host mother waters the plants from a nearby stream. They are under the malaria nets—-Leah not so happy about this use of the nets!
When we get back we see that they have killed chicken for our meal and so on top of a big bowl of rice, which is part of every lunch and dinner, there are chicken pieces in a peanut sauce. We are given a big bowl for us, and some spoons, although most of her family will eat with their hands. Leah tells us that the food that is right in front of you, as you sit on the mat, is your portion. Bon appetite!
I could go on and on about our adventure, but will end with the evening dance party. As night falls, and a fire is started in an opening near the beautiful baobab trees, the village drummer starts his rhythmic music. All the villagers come out, especially the women and babies. We, the guests at this extravagant event, are seated in the chairs with babies in our arms as we watch the women come to the center of the circle and take their solo turns at dancing. When the other women are impressed with the solos they toss in their colorful shawls as a bravo. What an incredible day!
Thank you my dear niece Leah for the opportunity to peek into your world.
Adam Said:
on January 6, 2012 at 3:47 pm
sounds like you got the royal treatment!